- 30.11.2001 -

Paris, France

My bus to London arrived a little after midnight. The ride was long and dull and very uncomfortable. I passed the time away reading LoTR book 3. We had to wait several hours for the transfer. A young Italian Girl with a Madonna complex held my attention.

I fell asleep for a bit on the Eurolines coach to Dover. When ze got to passport control the guy next to me was escorted off. They believed his passport was false. We are now almost 2 hours behind schedule. We never went across the ferry but on the train instead. It wasnt anything to write home about. In Calais we changed coaches. The drive was so long and we only managed to get here after dark.

Everyone seemed to know where they were going. I was tempted to follow the only two english speaking people on the coach for a moment until I got a grip. I have to manage on my own. By now I am really tired and I remembered seeing neon hotel signs outside the bus station as we drove in. Collecting my luggage I headed out. The Italian girl bought bus tickets to Italy. Rather her than me. I needed to get some sleep!

I checked into Mister Bed for 240FR for the night.The girls english was better than my french.

The room is petit but with a good shower built into a space-age plastic bathroom in the corner. I planned tomorrow, read a little and watched CHARMED dubbed in french before bed.

- 01.12.2001 -

Checked out at 10am and got the receptionist to point out where I was on my map. I was at Gallenini outside of Paris itself. I hadnt drank anything in ages and I was parched so I walked around for a bit looking for a place to buy a drink. I walked into a mall and noticed that everyone was pushing supermarket trolleys. I followed them back to a supermarket on the top floor of the mall, where I purchased a bottle of mineral water for 2.5FR. I got a few stares from shoppers. I think it was the rucksack.

My rule is to take everything slowly so I made my way to the metro and studied the map for a while. I also read all the signs that were in english. I figured that finding somewhere to stay may take time so Id need to be able to travel back and forth on the metro. I planned on touring Paris anyway so a carte orange was needed. 5 days worth should do it.

I queued up at the ticket desk and when it was my turn I chickened out and said 'parlez vous anglais?' She said oui but only a little. Luckily an angel from heaven decended in the form of an asian lady who offered to translate for me. The card cost me 175FR and would allow me to travel throughout Paris for 5 days.

I went to a couple of places mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide only to be that they are not there anymore. So much for being up to date. The last place I went to offered me a place in one of their hostels for 250FR q night. No toilet though. No thanks!

The next place the guide recommended was hard to find so I ended up buying a map. My pocket compass came in handy too so I could stop walking in the wrong direction!

I finally found it but they got the address wrong. I checked in for 3 nights at 363FR which included breakfast in total.

I met a Canadian couple that checked in just after me, named Charles and Caroline. They were fro, Quebec so theyre french was excellent.

Grabbing my daypack I headed out pretty late. Id wasted most of the day looking for a place to stay. I was determined not to waste the night. I ended up at the Eiffel Tower. I waited in the queue for the north tower and after 45 minutes I was on my way up.

I started chatting to a couple fro, the States, Washington to be exact. His wife was fro, Hawaii. We talked about my trip and they recommended Hawaii (although she says it is expensive because everything is imported) and the USA.

I left them and went to the top where I was asked so,ething in french. I had heard the guy speaking english a moment ago so I said I dont speak french,in english. They were happy to find another english person in france. The guy works here and the girls with him were visiting. They were celebrating a birthday and offered me a drink. So we drank chanpagne fro, paper cups on top of the Eiffel Tower.

Before I left them the guy told me of an english pub that opens tomorrow off the Champs-Elysees called 'The Bowler'. Hed be there tomorrow if I were to pop in for a beer. They have SKY TV too.

Back at the hostel I didnt get much sleep as the guy on the top bunk (french) snored and the Canadians came back fro, a party at 4:30am drunk. Id had a meal though (steak et frites avec vin blanc) so I was content.

- 02.12.2001 -

Got up and washed determined to go to the pub as it was Sunday (nothing is open). Caroline informed me that it was the first Sunday of the month so most of the museums were free. With a view to saving money I headed on over to the Louvre. I was finally figuring out the metro. I went through some metal detectors and was instantly worried about my camera film. I neednt have bothered as I would later realise that Id left it all in my rucksack back at the hotel. I would have to survive with the roll in my camera.

The queue was long but it was worth it. The place is massive. It used to be a palace and has hundreds of rooms, courtyards and levels.

I wont bore you with all the details but I did see the Mona Lisa and some weird twisted merde in the modern art section. Self-mutilation stuff.

I waled to the Musee d'Orsay next. It was a pleasant walk. Another long queue. This museum is smaller than the Louvre and mainly concentrates on paintaings and sculptures. I checked out the Monets that Sis likes.

I figured I'd head on over to the english pub next. I found the street (about 2km long) and walked towards the Arc de Triomphe with no luck. I hadnt eaten since breakfast so when in Paris.. I grabbed a McDonalds :o) Not bad for 33FR.

I sat below the Arc watching the insane motorists. The Arcs history is based on megalomania so JP would like it. (This is costing a fortune to type and the french do not use QWERTY keyboards so I'll sumarise stuff and type it all up properly when I get back.)

No luck at all finding the pub so took a trip on the Seiene. Beautiful at night!

Back at hostel chatted to Dave fro, NZ. Got some tips on where to visit. Back in room talked to french guy (Gerard) and newcomer fro, Brazil (Andy).

- 03.12.2001 -

Walking around the Latin Quarter today. Saw the Panatheon. Found a cheap internet cafe so wrote up my journal so far.

Cont.. Grabbed a meal near the Sorbonne. Loads of AD&D and comic stores here in the Latin Quarter. Richard would love it. Saw Notre Dame. Bought postcards. Walked along the Siene. At hostel met Michael and Debra (Canada) from Ontario.

- 04.12.2001 -

Bought train ticket to Venice (674FR) after finding out that the bus was 580FR. Went to Cemetry where Chopin and Jim Morrison are buried. Boring.

Catacombes were closed. Went to Moulin Rouge but way to expensive. The area is very much like Soho. Found the Bowler pub eventualy and had a pint of Beamish while watching the cricket on SKY.

Back at hostel met Michelle (Boston USA), Jorge (Chile), Jules(Mark Dakokas lookalike from Columbia), Ameil (FRance) and Morgan (New Zealand). We drank three bottles of wine then headed out to a Mexican bar and got drunk while chatting about politics, music, General Pinochet and how to pronounce Pina Colada. Pretty weird night as the hostel porter took one of the french girls over the breakfast tables. We ignored them. Went to bed at 3.30am pretty wasted. Two Spanish guys had checked in to our room.

- 05.12.2001 -

Stayed in hostel for a bit reading and chatting to Jorge and a guy from Jordan. Said goodbye to Michelle. Went to Catacombes. Lots of human skulls and bones. Yuck! Went to PO and sent parcel home. Saw the Louvre at night! Ripped bottom of my trousers goddammit. Got on sleeper train and left for Venice.

- 06.12.2001 -

Venice, Italy

I haven't got my journal with me so I cant write up what has happened the last few days but I've passed this reasonable internet cafe down a back alley in Venice and figured I'd log on (5000Lire) and gave you all an update.

I took the overnight sleeper train to Venice after deciding not to go to Lyon. I was getting a tad tired of France and Paris was eating away my money!

The sleeper train ride was pretty mundane. Met a guy from England and a girl from Slavinia and a couple of girls from the States when we pulled into Venice.

After finding an ATM that worked I hooked up with Adam (Canadian) and Chris (USA) and we explored Venice after dropping our bags off at the hostel (dull place on an ilsand in the middle of nowhere).

Venice is a great place but its pretty cold at the moment and the prices are way too high! Only staying 2 days. Today and tomorrow. Going to check the train times and prices to Rome in a bit then grab some lunch. They have some cool confectionary here but its too pricey! The exhange rate is 3000Lire to a quid.

At this rate I'll be in Athens long before Anna so I may of done Europe in only a week or two. It means I'll stop longer in my next stops I guess. I'll only stay somewhere if I really want to. Dont get me wrong, Venice is great but its pricey!

You need to buy phonecards here as everything is notes. I have yet to see any coins. Ok. Gotta log off as only paid for 15mins and need to check my email. I'll tidy up this log when I get to an internet cafe that is cheaper further on down the line.

Cont.. Got back to Zitelle (hostel stop) late and ran into Adam. He convinced me to go with him to a classical music concert in an old church over at San Marco dock. Got in cheap as they thought we looked like students! They played Vivaldi amongst other works. Pretty good. Got the waterbus back to the hostel in the freezing cold night!

- 07.12.2001 -

Rome, Italy

Checked out of hostel. Bought train ticket to Rome but missed my train coz couldnt understand the Italian annoucements. Guy at information desk saidI cold use my ticket on next train in an hour or get faster train for L40000 extra. No way. I waited. Got to Bolgna and missed the transfer. It said stand 3 but there are 3 stand 3s. 3centrale, 3ovest and 3est. Figured out the next train was in an hour so spent time working out the correct stand. Had a bughy which is a warm sandwhich with cheese, bacon and mushrooms in it. Yum.

Got on the train but it was packed so for over 3 hours I was in the gangway on a pull down seat with others. Panicked at one point when the train started to go back the way it came after stopping at a station. Must of changed tracks though as my pocket compass said we were going SE. Phew. Got into Rome at about 8pm.

All hostels were full and the Lonely Planet recommended one (Fawlty Towers) wanted L110000 for a room. She came down to L90000 but still pricey. She said there was a cheap place around the corner for L35000 but on the way I saw a fancy hotel and the guy had one room left for L70000. I took it. Had a bathroom with shower and a TV with cable! Had a hot shower and watched The Matrix in Italian.

- 08.12.2001 -

Woke up early and checked out. Went to Enjoy Rome, a travellers information place. Everything is exensive so walked around. Found a cheap dump called Hotel Cervia. They wanted L55000 a night. I paid L100000 for 2.

Went to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and the Vatican. Lost track of the day as Vatican Museums were closed so went into St Peters. Security was tight and we all got searched by the Vatican guards first. Inside its amazing. Wow it atkes your breath away! The Louvre has nothing on this place for extravagance. Sat down for a bit.

On the way out people were rushing to the side street so I followed. A procession was occuring with a big golf cart with a glass cube on the back. It was the pope waving! I took a photo. Went to Rome, saw the pope. Cool.

Bought a pork sandwhich from the fairground in Piazza Navona (loads of fountains with sculptures). The walk back was knackerising. Bought a cheap bottle of wine and went to my room. Started thinking about what to do next. Greece might be cold and the guide book says the ferrys are weekly not daily in winter. Do I get a train to Brindisi and see if I can get a ferry to Greece? Then see if I can get to Athens? Or maybe get a plane? Where is the airport? Questions questions and stress! Sigh.

- 09.12.2001 -

Woke up and talked to the manageress while handing my key over. She says there is a travel agent that will be open tomorrow around the corner. I can make enquiries there. Should I just skip Greece and head to Thailand? Not sure yet. May stay an extra day in Rome as I want to see the famous tresaures in the Vatican Museum.

Went to the Roman Forum to see it for longer then onto the Panatheon, Trevi Fountain and a few Piazzas before heading into a few english bookshops.

- 10.12.2001 -

Decided to stay another day to find my feet. Had some hassle getting money out of an ATM but got some finally! Bought a metro ticket to the Vatican but police kicked us out coz there was a strike starting. The ticket was valid on the buses but none were going that way that I could work out. Gave up and walked again.

Toured around the Vatican museums. Pretty impressive works by Michaelangelo and Raphael all over the walls. Especially the Sistine Chapel. Bought a cappaccino in the cafe saw a few paintings the walked another 4 miles back to the hotel.

Decided to visit the travel agents. No ferries are leaving from Brindisi this time of year. One leaves daily from Bari (8pm). I can get the 13:04 train from Roma Termi so I went and got my ticket.

Decided to do my laundry and headed out to this place Id seen on my travels. Woah!! I ran into Chris and Adam from Venice! What a coincidence. We chatted as Adam checked into a local hostel. There was a card there for a local laundrette/internet cafe just around the corner so I headed there after saying my goodbyes. Surfed the net while my clothes were washed and dried!

- 11.12.2001 -

Bari, Italy

Slept in until 8am then got packed. Kicked my heels with a book until 10am then checked out and headed to the local bookshop to pick up something to read on the 30hour journey.

Went to the train station and had an american coffee in Micky Ds until my train was due to arrive then waited on the platform.

It was a long train ride to Bari. Got off and could not find anyone that spoke english! Worked out I needed bus 2/0 so got that and went to Superfast ferrys docking point. Got a ticket and boarded.

It was a long night and they showed Alister McClains Nightwatch from 1985. Oh goodie. My inflatable pillow came in handy and I fell asleep.

- 12.12.2001 -

Patras, Greece

We docked at Igoumenista and then took off again. I walked on the upper deck when daylight broke. Cool view but brrr was it cold! We docked at Patras. God water a poor place to live!

Met an Ozzy couple and we boarded a dilapted rust bucket of a train for Athens an hour and a half later. It caught fire when we got to Corinth though and we had to get off and wait for the next train. This turned out to be faster and we got to Athina by 8pm.

It was very dark and the greek road signs made no sense so I had to use my map and he greek map in the train station to do some basic translations. Found the youth hostel and checked in. My only room mate was Chiu from Japan. Nighty night!

- 13.12.2001 -

Athens, Greece

Decided to take care of some business today. Could not find an ATM that liked my VISA card so used it to buy a plane ticket to Bangkok. Leaving on Saturday. And a guidebook to SE.ASia.

Some guy tried to get me to go into a bar but when I saw how the women were dressed I realised what kind of bar it was and made my excuses and left. Found a second hand english book store and traded mine in for something new to read.

Back at the hostel I met John(Canada) and Dave(USA) that had checked into our room. Downstairs in the communal room we were joined by Tom (Australia), Paul (Greek Canadian) and Al(Canada). We chatted well into the night about travelling and stuff. Called home. Night!

- 14.12.2001 -

Found an ATM that liked my card. Yey! I have money. Oh how we rely on these little pieces of paper. Did the tourist thing and visited the sights. Bought some postcards and wrote them ontop of a hill overlooking Athens near the Acropolis.

Posted the cards, took some photos and went back to the hostel. Off to Thailand tomorrow! Nervous as hell..

Chatted to Al and an asian girl from Canada most of the night. Kept trying my phone card but I couldnt get through until real late then talked to Mam until the card ran out of credit. Paul popped by for a chat about Egypt as he'd bought his ticket. Al left for Rome

- 15.12.2001 -

Woke up feeling nervous about flying so skipped breakfast.Said by to Louis (Columbia) who had just checked into our dorm and Chiu who was heading for Hungry. And Paul who I saw on the way out.

Headed into town to Syntagma to get a bus to the airport. Got their early, checked in and grabbed a McDonalds in the restaurant with a view of the runway. Ate my fries and beer while watching planes take off.

- 16.12.2001 -

Got on the plane (Thai airways) and adjusted my watch to Bangkok time which is GMT+7 hours! Little bit nervous but it was ok and the view was great of the greek islands and the ships in the sea.

The plane was half empty so I got a window seat (well all 3 seats actually) so I could sleep on them later. Got first class service. Drinks when we wanted them, wine and cognac with your meals. Watched a couple of movies (MVPII and American Outlaws) before catching about an hours sleep. Toothache started to kill me. Asked stewardess for an asprin but she had none. Someone nearby heard me and gave me a painkiller. Great! Watched several anonymous cities lit up below as we flew over them.

- 17.12.2001 -

Bangkok, Thailand

Landed in Bangkok and disembarked. Met Dominic (USA) who was on the same plane. Got our 30 day VISA stamped into our passports and grabbed our luggage. He wanted to know if we could split a cab. Said ok. Hes an architect and he was going on about his deals and Condo in San Fernando Valley. He was looking to stay in Thailand for 12 days and wanted a 100dollar a night hotel room. Too rich for my blood so I found a cheap one around the corner. Taxi driver tried to pull a fast one with the meter after dropping Dominic off but I wasnt having any of it. Maybe it was the toothache?

The hotel New Fuji was a dump. The air conditioning was its only saving grace. The cockroaches hid when you turned the light on in the bathroom. Hing would freak here! Luckily they give you a big key fob so I splatted lots of the critters.

Got a few hours sleep then watched BBC World. Went out and walked for 30mins in the clammy heat to Dmoinics hotels as he wanted to meet for a beer. Left a message after he wouldnt answer the receptions pages and headed back. Toothache is killing me so took an Ibuprofen.

Back at the hotel I plan an itinerary for Bangkok. I try to get to sleep but the painkillers are wearing off too fast! Grab a nice hot bath with my book.

Wake up at midnight in terrible pain. Dont think I can last until Australia to seek dental care and dont want to rush through Thailand after just getting here. Check out and say goodbye to the cockroaches.

Negotiate a tuk-tuk(three wheeled motorbike taxi) for 80bt. The guy flies around corners on two wheels. Woah what a ride! Dangerous though. He drops me off in the wrong street. He understands zero english and figures I wanted to go where the rest of the backpackers are. I have to walk 30mins up the road to the Youth hostel. Check in and start chatting to an American guy about travelling.

The toothache is too much! On the hostel noticeboard it says there is a good dental practice at the local Mission hospital so I head there in the blistering heat. Its not bad and I get preferential treatment despite the queue which they jump for me! After X-rays they say I need a root canal which I already figured. God I miss my english dentist! I have to come back on the 20th to get it filled properly. I put the large bill on my VISA and hope my insurance will cover it.

The day is wearing on so I do the tourist thing and go to Jim Thompsons house, a well known Silk Trader. Then I head back to the hostel where I am quizzed about 'my experience' at a Bangkok dentist by fellow travellers.

I meet Michael (USA living in Japan) and Gunter (German biker heavily into the works of H.R Giger). They tell me a few of them are going to a Thai boxing match later tonight. Then I meet Dan (Texas, USA) and Christoph (German) in our dorm. I mention the boxing match and we go downstairs. Later about 10-11 of us at the hostel head out on foot to the stadium. We avoid the touts and pay at the gate for the cheap seats (220bt) which are concrete steps. I sit talking to a girl from the UK (Herts) most of the evening. The match was ok. Only one knockout and not enough blood.

We walk back to the hostel to grab some sleep. Dan and Gunter head out drinking at the local whorehouses (as of the 18th no one has seen them!!). I try to get some sleep in our hot dorm with the crap air conditioning unit. I get a headache so I keep drinking water. You gotta stay healthy!

- 18.12.2001 -

Got up early and had a cold shower and shave. I dont think they have hot water here. Had breakfast and chatted to some of the guys from last night. Met Alex (girl from NZ) and a new guy in our dorm from the UK (Leics). Not sure what I am going to do today as I am knackered. Its sooooo hot here!

Updated my journal then hooked up with Fred (San Francisco, USA) who I referred to as Mr.Magoo as I did not get his name until the end of the day. He's been to Thailand 5 times because its cheap so he can stretch his pay longer. I think hes a tad deaf though as I keep asking his name and he says something irrelevant.He knows Bangkok though so we go to a street restaurant and order food (later I get a bad stomach). We end up walking all over as most things are closed except the Grand Palace which is pretty impressive sight. You walk around gold buildings with minature bonsai gardens. Amazing attention to detail.

We decide to get a tuk-tuk back and Fred gets the price down to 100bt which I am not impressed with so I drag him away until the driver comes down to 50bt. Back at the hostel I give the driver the 50bt and say to Fred that he owes me 25bt but he gives it to the driver who drives off! Oh Magoo you've done it again!

I cheer myself up with a Feast lolly and a bottle of orange pop for 19bt (29p!!)

Back at the hostel after a game of cards and chess with Fred I hook up with Dan who wants to go to the night market but wants company. I make like I'm broke as I'm tired but he offers to pay for everything so I tag along.

The night market turns out to be stalls selling copies of VCDs, DVDs, CDs, watches, clothes, handbags etc. On on the sides are adult bars. Dan drags me into one of the bars (honest mam I had no choice) where we have a beer while semi-naked thai girls pole dance in front of you.

My toothache comes back real bad all of a sudden so we go and find a drug store so I can get some paracetomols (20bt). No more beer for me!

Dan then gets it into his head that Bangkok is tame and not deserving of its reputation and sets out to find the seedier side of town. He drags me ino FIRE CAT an adult entertainment bar (damn him). Back at a bar stool we watch the weirdest show ever which I will not repeat cos well.. it was er.. different.

Dan is getting pretty wasted and I'm sober drinking my mineral water and so I grab a cab and head back to the hostel. Only this driver thinks hes taking me for a ride. I realise we are not going the right way and get annoyed with him (maybe its the toothache?) so he gives in and takes me back to the hostel. He wants more money but I give him what we agreed on.

- 19.12.2001 -

Today wasn't that interesting.No one about and nothing to do so I walk to the Australian embassy after failing to work out how the buses work and the tuk-tuk drivers being a pain today and asking for over 150bt to go a few blocks.

The embassy is closed for VISA applications. I have to come back tomorrow between 9am and 12noon. I check Dominics hotel but hes out so I walk to Wat Tramit before catching a cab back. I've walked all day (20miles) and when I take of my shoes my feet are blistered and bleeding. Feck! Medic!

Dan has checked out so he can be near the airport for his early flight. Only the two germans and me left. I'm so bored! If it wasn't for this damn dental work I would of moved on too.

I grab a meal in the restaurant and log on for a bit out of utter boredom. Bangkok is ok but I dont want to live here. Gotta get outta here before I go mad!

Arggggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhh!! I hope you lot can read this coz I typed in a load of text but the computer in the internet cafe I am in crashed. Where was I..

Sigh. Oh yeah. I was joined later in the community room by Christian who is actually Slovinian and not German as I first thought. He only speaks good German. Then theres a guy from Spain who studied at Middlesbrough Terciary college. His accent is a Spanish/Middlesbrough mix. He worships Chubby Brown.

Then theres Mikael who has traveled extensively. He is from Slovakia and has been living in Australia. His accent comes off as South African. Then there is Sunny from India who likes to talk about doing business a lot. He buys farms in India and hires people to work on them to make him money so he can travel and meet foreign women.

So we talked well into the night about the places we've been and seen.

- 20.12.2001 -

Get up early and go to the Australian embassy after getting the right bus this time. Get a VISA real fast much to the annoyance of the massive queue. One of the bonuses of having a British passport folks.

The feel good factor soon goes away when both the travel agent and tourist bureau tell me that you can not get a single ticket to Australia on a tourist VISA. You must buy a return. Its way to much though.

While waiting for the dentist I learn that when I am in Phuket I can fly to Singapore and get a one way ticket to Australia from there no problem. Sigh. The hassles of travelling!

To get to Phuket you can go by train (fully booked I checked) or bus (700bt but 12 hours!) or plane (2200bt for 1.5hrs). Hmm.. sometimes you just have to fork out that extra buck for comfort and convience. So I plan to go to the airport tomorrow. maybe share a cab with Christian and fly to Phuket. Then get to the beach and forget about Bangkok.

Oh and another thing. Never go to a dentist in Bangkok. The filling took 45 minutes and a lot of pain! She was crap at it and I was not happy at all. She double charged me. Said it was going to be 650bt last visit but the bill I got was 1250bt! Putting that on my insurance claim I reckon. Plus she says that it may hold until you get back. may hold? Fecking stupid bi...

Sorry in a bad mood. I'm in an internet cafe. A computer wasnt working "Do you know about computers?' asks the female owner? Sure. But something is wrong with the wiring and I'm not allowed to touch that so I use the next one. I'm typing this (not saving) and it crashes so she says please type again on this one. Doesnt look like my time will be reset either. Her kids are playing Counter Strike nearby and fighting and crying while she plays tetris. I'm writing this then splitting to get something to eat.

She actually only charged me 10bt in the end so it wasnt too bad. Got back to the dorm and Christian and David were there so we grabbed supper downstairs in the restaurant. Talked for ages then headed back to HI. Ran into the Spanish/English guy whose name is actually Alex. david and Christian wandered off so after chatting to Alex I chatted to Sunny before retiring to the dorm to read for a bit. David came back in late saying Christian had met a Thai girl.

- 21.12.2001 -

Christian came back at about 6:30am and started packing. He knew a cheap with of getting to the airport so I figured I'd tag along. We checked out and I booked a room at the HI in Phuket over the net.

We walked to this place and waited for an hour. No bus. It was becomming obvious that he'd been had. Someone had sold him a cheap ticket on a non-existant bus. So we walked to the airport bus stop and waited.

Forty five minutes later and he was ready to hail a cab. I didnt have the readies for a cab so it was lucky that the airport bus arrived about then (100bt).

After a long ride we got to the airport and Christian hopped off the bus and dashed into the airport. That ws the last I saw of him. No goodbyes. I wandered into the airport. I wasn't rushed as I was just feeling mellow today.

I learned that you could fly to Australia one way from here but they wanted 28,700bt (about 441quid!) whih is more than STA Travel quoted me for a return. No way! I went to get a ticket to Phuket but was told that they were all fully booked for today. Oh no theres that queasy feeling in my stomach again.

A helpful soul pointed out that Thai airways were fully booked but Phuket air runs a plane daily at 3pm. I went to their reservation desk and was quoted 2700bt. Hmm.. Went to another window and was quoted 2450bt. Hmm. I took the latter.

I had over 4 hours to kill so I finished off one novel that I picked up in Athens and started on another while drinking cold drinks from 'Super Burger'. Thailands cheap answer to Mickey D's.

The flight was short (about 80mins) and it was a little plane. Just as well as we landed on a little runway!

To get to the hostel was going to be a pain. Do I get a bus to Phuket itself then find a local taxi? Sigh. Some kid asked me where I wanted to go and I showed him the leaflet I picked up at the Bangkok HI. He called them on his mobile for directions then said 420bt to get there by car. I only managed to get him to go down to 400bt (6quid). Not bad for what turned out to be a 45min drive south to Chalong.

The HI is in the middle of Chalong with no beaches and there are only 8 travellers there so I was severely disappointed. I figured I'd bus to nearby beaches and check out the accomodation situation and if I can afford it, reserve a room and move there asap.

The people here are nice though and offer daily excursions from here. To cheer myself up I've booked the James Bond tour for tomorrow. Its all day and features canoeing, elephant rides, food drinks, treks and adventure. Cool! Plus there are many tourists taking it so I won't feel so lonely way out here.

Christina (Phillipines) and her mates (guy and girl) are going to Chalong so I tag alng in the car and go to the ATM and an internet cafe where I am now. The one at the hostel is very expensive! (80bt/hr) here it is 30bt/hr.

Chat with Ee (Malaysia) when I got back to the hostel.

- 22.12.2001 -

Phuket, Thailand

Met Jeff (Canada) at breakfast. Said by to Ee who was checking out today. Left in a 40yr old land rover for my James Bond Tour today. We were early so he took me on a tour to a lake. Got back in time to meet the tour bus. Picked up a few more tourists on the way to Phang-Nah bay.

Tide was low so we went to the elephant reservation first. Rode on an elephant following a stream through the jungle. It was an experience.

Back at the reservation it started to rain while they were giving us a demonstration on how rubber is produced. Met a couple from Southampton.

Went to the docks and took a long-tailed boat to the floating village for lunch. The rain was torrential. Damn.

After lunch we headed to the islands and boarded a floating platform. We got in canoes and went to the rock islands and through them through caves into caverns. We had to lie down a lot in the canoes to get in under some caves.

Took the boat to James Bond island. Its called that by the locals since it appeared in 'The Man with the Golden Gun'. Took a few snaps then we headed back. Felt tired.

We stopped at a gem place on the way back. Hailed as the biggest jewlery store in the world. I found the sharks in the tanks more interesting. Grabbed a coffee then got a minibus and driver (Chi) all to myself back to Chalong.

- 23.12.2001 -

Grabbed breakfast with Jeff then went to Phuket town on bus (15bt) then to Patong beach (15bt).

Sunbathed on the white beach and took a swim in the aquamarine sea. Ah this is the life. Gazed at the luxury yaughts moored in the distance, the guys buzzing around on jetskis and the tourists trying to learn to windsurf.

Walked around enquiring about hotel prices. I fancied treating myself to an air conditioned hotel room with english speaking TV over Xmas but they were so expensive. Grabbed a bite to eat at a tourist place. Nothing to write home about. Jeff headed to the gym and I went walkabout.

caught the buses back to Chalong. A kid fell off at one point when he was being silly. Luckily the bus goes slowly. His mam went apeshit at him for being silly.

Walked down the street to get supper but it wasnt very nice. I'm also in a lot of pain as despite using suncream I'm badly suffering from sunburn on my back.

Back at the YHA I give my email address to Jeff as hes checking out and retire early. The pain is severe even when I put on aftersun cream. I drink lots of water and keep the room fan on but the pain is pretty bad.

- 24.12.2001 -

Got up late and had breakfast with a couple from England then had a lie down with a book. Came down later to sit on the porch and read my book some more and update my paper journal. Ay came by and asked if I wanted to eat. I said yes and she drove me to the local place where I ate last night on the back of her moped. (I ordered a rice dish this time) The ride was thrilling if a tad risky (no helmet no road rules).

Back at the YHA they provided a plate and cutlery for my take-out. Cool. Later Ay popped by when I was reading and brought a fan out to keep me cool.

All set to walk to Chalong to log on for an hour when Christina and Shalad offered to take me. Great! The sun is pretty hot today. He said he'd come back for me in an hour. Are these people nice or what?

Its Christmas eve but it doesn't feel like it. They only celebrate it at the tourist spots for the tourists. Here they are all buddhists so it is not recognised. ON the plus side nothing is closed.

Met Charles and Nicholas back at the hostel (Kiwis). They wanted to go home for Xmas but all the flights were fully booked. I had checked prices to Melbourne as well and they had doubled! Between 450-500 pounds one way! Looks like I am stuck here until I find a cheap flight or my visa runs out. Damn.

- 25.12.2001 -

Christmas day although it doesnt feel like it. Got up and had breakfast with Charles and Nicholas then caught a bus into Phuket town (pronounced poo-ket) where I walked around for a bit. Decided to have a KFC which turned out to be nothing like it is back in england. Nowhere near as good! Still it was only 1.20pounds for 2 pieces of chicken, fries and a large coke. They had KFC TV too which was like MTV but with some rather good Thai rock bands.

Found the cinema easily enough. Didn't fancy Monsters Inc (Ziploc had sent me it but never saw it b4 I left home). So I bought a ticket for The Musketeer (1.20 pounds!). I had an hour to kill before it started so I walked around and bought another book to read. Been reading a lot lately.

Got to the cinema and watched some english and thai trailers then we had to stand for the King and national anthem. The film was ok. Very english with a splattering of french and american actors. A very acrobatic interpretation of the three musketeers.

Bought some postcards then caught a bus back to the hostel. Played dominoes with the Kiwis (yes I'm that bored) then went to Chalong on mountain bike to phone my family and wish them a merry Xmas.

Grabbed lunch on the way back then a shower. Hung out in the communal room until my folks called me. Then the manager offered me the use of his PC to watch one of his VCDs (28 Days starring Sandra Bullock). Then Bed. Merry Christmas everyone!

- 26.12.2001 -

Up early again (my body just wakes up at 6:45am!) and had breakfast with Matt (Virginia, USA) and Laura (USA but teaching english in Japan). I hadn't slep to good coz I was worried about all the mozzy bites I've been getting an I have no anti malaria tablets! Matt says this area should be ok as he downs one of his own tablets. Hmm.

Fancied renting a moped today but I was too late and they were all taken so I got a mountain bike and headed for Raiwi beach. Damn I must be stupid. Stopped at a mini-mart for refreshments but 5 miles down the road the heat was unbearable and the sweat was pouring off of me. Stopped for a bit then continued.

Raiwai was dead and I mean dead. There was nothing there so I curved around and followed another road winding through the hills back to Chalong. I headed for the internet cafe after cycling 10km in this heat. I must be mad. Look mother there goes a mad englishman on a bicycle!

The girl in the internet cafe only charged me 34bt for over 3 hours of time! I think she made a mistake and did not realise that it was not an hour but 3 that the crazy net-addicted englishman was surfing for. Oh well. Caught upon my emails, journal, online comics and movie news. *grin*

Back at the hostel I wasted away what was left of the day playing Jenga with Ay, showing Meow (a mad Totoro fan) how to do the sliding block puzzles and doing some light reading while watching the lizards crawl all over the walls.

- 27.12.2001 -

Up early again. Breakfast then bus to Phuket town. I'd been surfing for a cheap ticket to Melbourne but prices were 450-600 pounds! And I had to go to Bangkok or Singapore on top of that. The problem was that I needed a return ticket to Singapore otherwise I could not fly there as I needed proof that I would be leaving. Argh!!

So today I went into town to quiz the airlines on prices. First up was Thai air who said they were fully booked from Phuket to anywhere until 7th Jan. Damn. There was me and some Italian guy trying to do the same thing. Get out of Thailand!

My clerk was a tad more helpful and queried the computer for 30mins before getting back to me. I can leave from Phuket to Bangkok then there to Melbourne on the 2nd. One seat left. Did I want it?

Another 30mins later I had the tickets in my hand. Roughly about 320pounds plus tax including both flights! I've saved a few hundred quid so I was happy. I'm going to check in early on these flights so I don't get bumped. Call me paranoid but when something seems almost to good to be true, it sometimes is.

In a happy mood I walk around Phuket and confirm that the premiere of Lord of the Rings is showing tomorrow although they have no idea at what times. Going to see that if I can. I then grab a bus back to the hostel and chat to Christina. She says I can watch VCDs if I want later. Cool. Technology! Did you know that Gameboy Advance units are only 60pounds here? Tempting..

One bit of bad news is that on the radio I was reminded that the Euro comes into force soon and I still have about 89pounds worth of drachma! And you can not change it in Thailand as they do not like Greek money. I asked around at the banks and exchange places and they take everything else but money from Greece. No idea why but I knew that I could not get Thai money when I was in Greece either. Hope the money is ok until I get to Australia and can maybe change it there.

- 28.12.2001 -

Did something mad today. I hired a motorscooter (120bt). It was a little 110cc jobbie but it could get up to a decent speed. I insisted on a helmet because of the way they drive around here. It is supposed to be the law to wear one but they rarely do.

I rode south to pick up my photos that I'd put in for processing. About 80percent came out. Either they fucked up or something is wrong with the camera. I wasn't too happy either way.

Then I went to Phuket town to get my LoTR ticket but they had already sold out goddammit! And it was only 11:30am!

Rode north to find the park with the waterfalls but failed to find the turning so headed west towards the beaches. Arrived at Karon and parked up. Crossed a bridge over a stream where water buffalo were bathing then found a spot on the squeaky white sand. Wrote out a few of my postcards under the blistering sun.

Got back on the bike and drove south following the coastline stopping occasionally. Actually opened the bike up to see what it could do slowing down for the sharp turns.

Got back to the hostel and chatted to a couple for Australia for a bit before heading out for supper. Drove back as it was starting to rain.

At the hostel the owner had turned up as he does three times a year apparently. They are about to open a restaurant out front and he wanted to supervise it. His family had come along with him. I taught his daughter a card trick which she then proceeded to show everyone.

- 29.12.2001 -

Still had a couple of hours left on my 24hr motorscooter rental so figured I'd drive to the cinema and reserve a ticket. Niki (the owner) and his family were going to coconut island for the day. They asked if I wanted to join them for free. I said where I was going and they offered to take me. They were already taking a young couple there in the back of their minivan whom I'd met at breakfast.

They first dropped off the Australians then stopped at a place for lunch before heading to the cinema. I found out that it doesn't open until 11am so I'll come back tomorrow.

We drove to the NE coast of phuket and went down to the dockas at a little fishing village. We boarded a long-tailed boat that appeared older than me! It was in such a bad state of repair that the salt water had rusted through the metal canopy mountings and they were held in place by wooden splints and rope.

The trip out to the island took 45minutes and was very hectic. At one point the high waves threated to capcise us.

The island itself was beautiful. No one about, clear sandy beaches and just the sound of the sea lapping against the shore. Very relaxing.

I jumped from the boat and miscalulated the tide and got a bit wet. Oh well. We walked through jungle to a little village where dogs, cats and geese lived happily together. There was a mainstreet of concrete bordered by wooden huts, and a school. That was it.

Niki had bought some land of these people and was going to build another hostel here. This one would feature tree houses and would be for the more adventurous traveller rather than the typical tourist.

I got bitten to death in the jungle so I walked back to the beach and watched hermit crabs, huge soldier ants and sand fleas roaming about. Sometimes nature is just unpleasant.

The tide had gone out so we had to take a canoe back to the boat. The ride back was just as adventurous and at one point the canopy calopsed and later our propeller got entagled in a fishing net. The fishermen were none too impressed.

The tide was way out at the village and the water level had dropped a meter. We had to come in slowly along a stream bordered by mud banks.

Back at the fishing village it started to rain so we got under cover. We sat at a long table which used to be a boat at one point and were poured cold glasses of Singha beer while some Thai guy singing old Elvis songs played over the speakers.

The buffet was typical Thai I was told. Niki pointed out this and that usually as 'hot', 'hotter' and 'maybe too hot for a non-Thai David'. I tried them all and they were impressed. They expected me to start to gasp for breath or cry most probably. They went back to their conversation failing to notice how fast I was drinking my beer. My mouth was on fire! Oh my god!!!

We got back to the hostel and I grabbed a quick shower before heading out with Sharad and two girls from Taiwan. He dropped me off at EZY VDO to pick out some english spoken VCDs. He came back and we sellected 5 for the rental price of 3. Back at the hostel I watched BEOWULF starring Christopher Lambert. I think he is trying to regain the fame he got from Highlander but like Hauer and Bladerunner, they can still entertain but they never quiet attain the fame they deserve.

One note about Beowulf guys. If you have not seen it already, I recommend watching it just for Rhona Mitra alone! Wow.

- 30.12.2001 -

Get up early determined to see LoTR today. Grab a bus into town and get to the cinema at 11:20am. True, they do not open until 11am but they do allow telephone bookings from 9am! Arggghh! All sold out again except for a few seats at the 7pm showing. The buses stop at 5pm but I can get a taxi or arrange something with Shahad so I had over the 90bt with a sigh. I'm happy that I will finally see it but the hassle is begining to annoy me.

I find an internet cafe down the road at 20bt an hour. Cheapest yet. I'll kill an hour or so and go back to the hostel to do some laundry and maybe catch some sun with a book before heading back.

Back at the hostel I arrange with Sarahad (no idea how to spell it) to pick me up outside the cinema at 10pm. Watched a VCD, read a little then went back into town. Caught my usual bus. The driver knows me by now as he welcomes me with 'Hello again! Phuket?'. Yep.

I have time to kill so I grab a pizza at Thailands answer to Pizza Hut with a coke refil then head to another cheap 20bt/hour internet place. I read how cold it is in Britain at the moment. Man it's so hot here he he.

Get to the cinema a few minutes early. Its 7pm doors open but thats when the film starts but I'm already in my seat. Late comers are a tad pissed. The cinema is over-booked so the ushers start bringing in chairs and placing them in the aisles.

So I've finally seen Lord of the Rings. What was it? 2 hours 45mins? I didn't notice as I was so entertained by the movie. Thanks tomy mates for recommending I read the books first! I spotted the differences, missing bits and 'interpretations'. I did not spoil it to much and the CGI, acting and scarey moments made up for it.

A lot of people coming out of the cinema had made the mistake of drinking all the way through the film. I didn't bother as I knew it was a long flick. They were mummbling about 'wasn't it long?' as they ran to the toilets.

Waited for ages for Sarahad but he never turned up. Called the hostel and was told he was in Patong. Damn. The taxi's wanted to much but the motorbike taxi would take me to the hostel for 100bt. I insisted on wearing the one and only helmet.

If you want a thrill ride on the back of a motorbike taxi at night as they dodge through traffic at 60km/hr. Weyhey! Always insist on having the helmet though as they do not carry a spare for passengers. They will give you their helmet as they want your money. Trust me.

Back at the hostel the new restaurant was open so I chatted with Niki and Andrew (Oz) who was now rather drunk on Sigha beer (6percent). Sarahad turnedup and apologised for forgetting to pick me up.

- 31.12.2001 -

Got up early as usual and had breakfast with Andrew and his daughter. They were leaving for Bangkok today. Another lazy day for me however, kicking my heels, taking the mountain bike to grab some shopping and lunch in Chalong and then heading back to the hostel to read some more of my new book.

Christina had a gig tonight at a hotel at Karon beach. She's a singer but is working at the hostel to be with her boyfriend, Sarahad. Her manager needed her to sing with a new band he was managing. A mixture of Thai and Phillipino members. She had nothing to wear so Christina, Sarahad and I headed into Phuket town to do some shopping.

Have you ever been in a clothes store in Thailand? The women are so small that all the sizes are for children. They like these shoes with 20inch heels! Christina bought a slinky new top and some smart shoes. Then she bought a couple of coconuts and we drank from them while waiting for Sarahad to bring the car around.

I was invited to come and see her sing tonight and I said yes. Sarahad and I would leave for the late set. Back at the hostel a new VCD (The Family Man) would not work in the computer so I copied it to HD and played it from there. I reckon the guy should of kept his original life. Just my opinion.

Later on Niki was throwing a party at his new restaurant with free food so naturally I went. I met Yohann and his son Fredrick (Sweden) who had just arrived. Over a beer or two me and Sarahad pursuaded them to join us at the hotel gig.

The gig was open air so we sat at a table at the front as guests of the main singer. (Later I would find out that the tourists had paid 3,500bt to get a seat each and we only paid 48bt for a coke).

Christina had a great voice and could really sing. The main guitarist (Thai) could really play Santana and the bass player (Phillipino) could sing a mean La Bamba.

The tourists didn't seem to be having too good a time and seemed bored. Plus the entertainment organiser was really bad. Us four had to stiffle our giggles at some of the really bad things she suggested that got no feedback from the audience. I'll never be a tourist again on a package holiday! Travelling cheaply and making your own itinerary is much more fun.

New year came with a loud bang and many fireworks. Then the entertainment continued with a group of dancers from Indonesia. One of the dancers was an amazing looker. The dancers were good too. The Swedes were amused by the ladyboys.

It got windy so we said our goodbyes and Happy New Years to Christina etc and left.

David Kei

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