- 01.03.2002 -

Auckland, NZ

We had booked Zorbing today (rolling down a hill in a big inflatable ball) but the Uncle of the guy that runs it has just died so it was canceled. We got picked up by Glassy who took us quadbiking instead.

Quadbiking was great fun. Me and Uiele had motorbike licenses so we were issued with manual bikes. The girls (Helen, Nele and Annalies) were given automatics with LCD displays telling them what gear they were in. We then did some practice driving and headed off through feilds, rivers, over hills and down into deep valleys. I had this stupid grin on my face 90% of the time. I'd stay at the back and let the others get a bit ahead of me then I'd throttle the bike, fly up hills, slide down and take corners with the back wheels sliding out. Two and a half hours we got for what equates to 25quid. Nice.

On the way back Glassy's jack russel sat on my knee as I was the one who knew how a dog likes to be scratched behind the ears and under the collars. The others were either afraid of dogs or a cat person.

I grabbed lunch in town and then headed back to catch the bus back to Auckland. There was only me, Lisa, Nele, Annalies and Sophie going back. The rest had decided to stay on. Back in Auckland I found I had been given a bed in a 10 bed dorm room. There was two very cute Brazillian girls in there when I checked in so I chatted to them for a bit.

- 02.03.2002 -

Waitomo and Raglan, NZ

I was on the top bung near the window with no curtains so all the lights of the city illuminated my bed and the noise did nothing for me so I failed to get much sleep. Checked out and met Steve our driver for the bus going south.

We headed south to Waitomo. I made friends with Arman (Sydney) and Steve (Harrogate). We signed up for blackwater rafting, a unique caving experience for 62 bucks (19.50pounds). We were issued with wet suits, boots, shorts and a caving hat complete with torch on top. About 8 of us were driven in a minivan to a forest where we were issued with inner tubes from car tyres. Then we were taking to a very muddy river with a jetty.

The guide asked for a volunteer. When no one stepped forward I said I'd go first. We had to stand on the end backwards with your heels over the side. With your body bent forwards and your arms clutching the inner tube behind you, you had to throw yourself backwards into the river.

The shock of the water being so cold hits you first as you go under. Then you pop back up and try to maintain a balance as you float down river. Everyone looked at me expectantly. The first words out of my mouth were 'the water is bloody freezing!'. Further volunteers were in short supply.

After we had all filled our wet suits with water we went on a 8 minute walk to the cave entrance. This ensured we warmed up the water trapped in our suits. We then climbed down through a hole in the ground where the streams were going to an underground cave. We sat in this cave and listening to the safety instructions. After turning our helmet torches on we set off down the tunnel following the fast flowing stream watching our heads against the stalgtites (or is it stalgmites on the roof?).

We reached a waterfall and had to jump off it backwards into the darkness below. They say you should do one thing that scares you each day and I was definetly exceeding my quota. I hit the black water backwards, sank then floated to the surface and off into the darkness with just my headmap for illumination.

This went on for sometime. We'd walk where the water was not too deep, jump off waterfalls backwards and paddle in our innertubes in deep water. It was fun and definetly a new experience. At one point we grabbed each others legs to form a train, turned out a lamps and while the guide swam at the front we gazed up at the ceiling where glow worms were doing impressions of stars. It was pretty cool just lying in the water looking up in the darkness as you went underground in these caves. (Note: The glow worms are actually going to the toilet when they are creating this bioluminesence).

At the end we wanted to go again but we were told we could get into the river again and float back to the start which was pretty cool also. Back at the reception we wer given free soup and tastey bagels after a hot shower before we were off again.

Our next stop was Bridal Veil waterfalls. We walked down to the bottom and Steve and another guy jumped in for a swim. They came back red raw from the force of the falls. They looked as if they had been sandblasted.

Our hostel for the night was high up in the forests above Raglan. Our cabin overlooked the tree tops as it was built into the side of one of the valley walls. In the distance we could see the sea. I tried to do my washing but at night there is not enough power on site to make it work properly. Of course they did not tell me this when I asked if I can use it. Half way through the wash cycle it packed in. I had to play with it to get it to rinse and spin so I could hang my clothes up to dry.

In the lounge I met a couple of Canadians, one from Toronto who gave me some tips for when I visit. I then met 4 guys from Essex (Luke, Martin, Dave and Daniel) complete with Southend tops and baseball caps. We played cards and drank beer. The beer here is called Tui incase you wanted to know.

- 03.03.2002 -

Hahei, NZ

It had rained last night so my clothes were still wet. At the beach me and 3 others hired boogie boards for 5 bucks each then headed out into the surf. It was a lot of fun as you dived over the surfs until you hit the big ones and rode them back. I was having so much fun though that I didn't realise the current was pulling me out to sea. I started to paddle back but it was no use. The current was to strong. I was panicking and loosing energy as I tried to swim hardy. I managed to calm down and reasoned that I could see the lifeguard tower from here so I was ok. I swam until a wave came then let it take me forward then swam again. It took ten minutes but I made progress. I could of signalled for a lifeguard and been embarrased for the rest of the day but at least I would of been safe. I just wanted to try one last time.

Back on the beach no one had realised I'd been in any danger and I was not about to let them known. I collapsed with aching arms and legs and an enormous respect for the sea/ You only get one chance with the sea.

We drove to another beach later on where we dug holes in the sand. They filled with really hot water due to geothermal activity in the area. It was weird lying on the beach in what felt like a hot bath. Our hostel for the night was at Hahei beach.

- 04.03.2002 -

Maketu, NZ

Happy 30th wedding anniversary Mam and Dad!

We headed to Corommandel today for a bit of a trek or tramp as they Kiwi's say. I headed down to Stingray bay then over to Cathedral cove. We stopped at a bottle shop later on and I picked up a bottle of Jim Beam as I was growing tired of beer.

We arrived at a Maori farm at Maketu were we were introduced to 'Uncle Boy' via the traditional Mauori way of touching noses together. We had a touer of the local community then a traditional hangi meal cooked in the earth.

We all sat in a circle in the communal room and were taught maouri history, dance and games then gave a talk on ourselves. Its useful being from a town where Captain Cook was born as he is well known out here.

Me, Steve and Arman chatted about our travels until late.

- 05.03.2002 -

I had a big decision to make today. Do I leave or stay? I decided to stay and became the first traveller to actually stay here. The next bus was not due for several days.

Boy introduced me to Pam who took me to meet one of the truck drivers called Wal working at the next farm. He was heading out to pick up some maize from a farm 35km down the road. I hitched a ride and we picked up the maize by driving alongside the harvester in his Hino truck as it dumped the maize into the back.

We stopped at Makatu on the way back where I managed to get a phone card so I could call home.

I saw a yaught being lowered into the water then I hooked up with Bill the local farm hand as it was time to milk the cows. We hearded them into the milking shed with the use of a motorbike. I then helped milk 300 cows using these giger-like machines which we had to hook up to the cows udders while making sure they didn't crap on you.

Back at Boy's I ran into Slim who runs the local tour. He declined to shake hands as I was literally covered in shit. One shower later and a change of clothes and I was good as new.

- 06.03.2002 -

Hung out with the family today. Life on a maori farm can be pretty sweet bro! Choice. We did some shopping and dropped off his computer which had a fried PSU due to a recent power spike in the area. Drank burbon, read, played with Jess the dog, watched the kids, talked to the fisherman. Lazy day.

- 07.03.2002 -

Me and Slim drove into town in his suped up low to the ground Holden Kingswood SL. I had to get a mothers day card today but I discovered that NZ does not celebrate it until May so I had to get a generic card to post.

The computer place wanted 150 bucks to put in a new PSU. I walked into rentavision chatted to the technician about computers then came out got Slim to bring me his PC from the rip-of-merchant and took it to my new friend. I got them a new PSU with a years guarantee for 60 bucks (20quid) and no labour costs. Sweet. back at the house this is what I am now using to update my journal. For free. (Oh yeah they bought me a steak dinner too).

The next STRAY bus arrived later that day. I was playing Doom with Margerita, Pam's daughter when they arrived. Helen was on it so we caught up. Uncle Boy did his Maori speech but added a twist this time. He talked about the englishman that decided to get off the bus and experience life, Mauri style. True, he was covered and crap after milking a few hundred cows but he's still here. I was a tad embarassed.

After a few drinks with Slim and a few others I went back to my room to find out that I was now sharing with 3 women. They were the best looking ones on the new bus too! 'Welcome to the girls room' they chirped. Choice bro. (Note: Choice and Sweet replace Sorted and Cool in NZ).

SORRY ABOUT THE LACK OF AN UPDATE BUT OUTSIDE OF THE CITIES IT COSTS 12 DOLLARS AN HOUR TO ACCESS THE INTERNET HERE. THE JOURNAL CONTINUES..

- 08.03.2002 -

Rotorua to Tongoriro National Park, NZ

Time to move on today. I said my goodbyes to Uncle Boy, Slim and Karen, Kayla, Eharkara and Tohooto. The new bus driver is called Auto and has such an infectious laugh you have to experience it to believe it.

We went to Rotorua to see the village that rests upon only 30meters of the earths crust. Hot springs heated by the mantal beneath bellow from the ground as geysers. The smell of sulpher is foul and there is steam coming out of the ground everywhere. I started to feel pretty bad but I don't think it was anything to do with the sulpher. Back on the bus I laid down on the back seat.

By the time we got to Skotel, the lodge in the mountains that we were staying at, I was pretty sick. I figured I'd caught a bad cold or a fever. Everyone was going to be doing the Tongarino crossing in the morning and I wanted to do it as well. Its supposed to be the best day walk in NZ.

I took some tablets and rented some blankets and hit the sack. I was determined to beat this by the morning. The cold shivers came and went. I sweated it out and kept up the medication but I wasn't well enough by the morning so I had to miss the walk. In my 3-bed room were Mark (UK) and Eric (Sweden). They said bye and I caught some more sleep.

- 09.03.2002 -

Taupo, NZ

Later on I felt better. Johno (UK) and Ghintree (78yr old Taiwanese gentleman) who also neglected to do the crossing were grabbing a coffee with Auto. He pointed out a walk to the Taranaki falls so I grabbed my water bottle and camera and headed off.

It was a 2 hour circular walk and after 20 minutes I was already feeling a depletion in energy. I guess I was not fully recovered yet so its just as well that I never went on the walk. Its 17km and takes 7 hours crossing the mountains and volcano craters.

Upon return from my walk, the 4 of us got on the bus and headed further up into the mountains where the ski lodges were. There was no skiing going on at this time of year but the cafe was open so we grabbed a coffee and talked for a while. Ghintree told me about herbal remedies and how he tells everyone not to drink Coca Cola because its no good for you. 'Years ago we could jump down from 3 meters and be ok. Now our bones break because we drink this drink that is no good for us. I will not drink anything with artificial ingredients in it' he says.

We picked up the others after they had finished their walk and drove to Taupo (pronouced toe-paw). They demanded to know why we had the giggles when they got on. It was Ghintrees fault. One minute he was talking about how the Mauri women were unattractive because they were so large, the next he'd been telling Auto, Johno and I about when he visited England when he was 50 and all the strip joints he went to because they were taboo back home. It was just kinda funny for this really old, frail Taiwanese guy to suddly start talking about english women and to demonstrate their hourglass figures and various 'shapes' with his hands 'they were so beautiful with wonderful bodies!'. He he.

There had been a booking cock-up so we ended up on mattresses in the conference hall for tonight. It wasn't too bad as we got a discount so we only paid 10 bucks. I grabbed my walkman and walked into town which took 45 minutes. I grabbed something to eat then walked back. I watched people try to win prizes by trying to get a hole in one in a golf hole situated on a floating island out on lake Taupo.

- 10.03.2002 -

I'd slept ok apart from one quick visit to the mens room in the middle of the night. I rounded the corner and a possum ran out from the gents and jumped on the fence next to me. I took a step towards it and it ran for the reception and went 'twok' as it ran into the closed glass door. Possums are not known for their intelligence.

I decided to stay and wait for the next bus as I was determined to do that crossing! We drove into town and I picked up a sleeping bag for 25 bucks as it is colder in the south island. I also bought some Vitamin C pills. I had brought some with me at the start of my travelling and I'd been taking them regulalrly. Funnily enough I'd ran out a few days before I got sick. Maybe it was a coincidence but I bought more anyway to boost my immune system.

Back at the hostel we checked into a lodge. Mark got dibs on the bottom bunk. I got the room at the back with a double bed! Tim (Australia) got the top bunk and Johno got the sofabed. The lodge came with a TV and all the essentials so we don't have to use the shower or toilet blocks anymore and we had our own kitchen.

We headed down to the spa pools. We got in for half price. The spas were like big swimming pools but heated naturally by the geothermal activity in the area. If you've ever tried to swim in your hot bath at home and wondered what it would be like if you could, well now I know. You swim as if you were in a pool but you are so relaxed because its so warm. Sigh..

I met the next driver, Gareth, and his group. They were all Germanic. By that I mean they were from Germany, Austria, Belgium, Holland and Switzerland. I was a minority! I tried talking to a few of them but they were funny with me. Damn. Ulie was here though so we caught up.

Damn, I was in two minds about getting on this bus. I couldn't decide so I decided to sleep on it. Juliet (UK) came into our room and we watched Jurasic Park 2 on the TV until I nipped out to call home. At night possums had a disco on our roof.

- 11.03.2002 -

Tongoriro National Park, NZ

I had decided to go on the bus. After all I can't judge someone after only speaking to them for 5 minutes. I decided to give them another chance.

As luck would have it, all the Germanics got off the bus and a load of english speaking people got on. Yey! As we set off I started talking to them to introduce myself. When I said I was David it seemed my reputation had proceeded me as Uncle Boy was still telling the newcomers about me. They all asked me about life on a Mauri farm. They were Tessa, Gemma and Mel (UK), John (UK), Matthew (New York, USA), Bodil and Kaysa (Sweden) and Giezella (Germany).

We stopped once to do a walk around a lake which was cool. Me and Matt were getting on pretty good. I discovered this dark beer at the hostel called 'Monteith's Black' which was great.

Gareth asked me if I wanted a ferry ticket arranging for tomorrow. They weren't doing the crossing because of the weather so I'd decided that I could not keep staying behind and that I'd continue on and try and do the crossing on the way back. The ticket was 52 bucks though. I booked it myself and got it for 36 bucks. When Gareth found out he moaned and got everyone else a discount too.

I hung out with Tessa in the communal room as Matt and Bodil were starting to get pretty close so I left them in peace. The whole group joined us later and we shot some pool and talked until late.

- 12.03.2002 -

Wellington, NZ

We drove for most of the day only stopping at the occasional supermarket. At Wellington we checked in to our hostel. It used to be a hotel and Queen Elizabeth stayed here in 1953. In my dorm room were Arjan (Sweden), Tessa (Netherlands) and Keith (USA).

Matt, John and I headed to the museum before it closed. We only had an hour. We then went to a bar to get some beer and a bite to eat. The girls met up with us later. We were going to see Lord of the Rings at the Embassy cinema where it premiered in NZ but it was not on today so I ended up in the hostel bar talking to Leonne, Anne and Giezella.

- 13.03.2002 -

Picton to Abel Tasman National Park, NZ

We checked out and caught the ferry to Picton. The journey took 3 hours. I walked about up on deck for a bit and grabbed a coffee.

In Picton we got our new bus and headed off through the beautiful wine region known as Marlborough stopping in Nelson. I walked around town for a bit and ran into Giezella. We got back onto the bus and headed for Abel Tasman where we would be staying tonight in tents on Old McDonalds Farm (yes really). Auto's bus was there so I caught up with a lot of people.

- 14.03.2002 -

Up early to do some sea kayaking today. We got driven in a minibus to the base of 'Southern Exposure'. We were paired up, me with Matt, and shwon how to put on our splash decks and lifejackets. We drove to the beach and were showing how to use the oars and as I was in the back I had foot pedals for rudder controls. We launched and soon we were off. It was great fun. The water was calm and the beautiful mountains on the distant shore were great to look at right up to the clouds at their peaks. Isn't that right Master Frodo?

The girls were getting tired because they were using their arms to row and not their shoulders and waists as demonstrated by our guide. Me went towards the shore and sailed into a lagoon which was very calm. Fish swam around our oars as we paddled. We got out on the shore and ate cookies and played frisby for a while. This beach was like the ones in all those photos. Unspoilt, clean sandy and blue water.

We got back in and headed back out to sea. We rounded an outcrop later on and headed for shore again. We set down on the beach and had lunch which consisted of meat and salad buns, orange and coffee and the largest and best tasting rock bun I've ever eaten. Yum!

After a little sunbathing we were given snorkles. I dived into the sea and swam around and began practicing my free diving. I was quite impressed with myself. When I found a beautiful shell at the bottom and gave it to Tessa, Gemma and Mel insisted I go get them one too. Sigh.

The walk back takes 3 hours. Its through beautiful countryside though so its not so bad. You wind up a steep track until you are at the top of the hills on the penninsula. Then you walk along the top gazing down into the bays at either side of you until you descend into a forest. Then basically you are on a narrow path weaving through thick vegetation following the curves of the hills and looking down at the shores below. You cross the occasional bridge and waterfall.

I walked and talked with Matt for a bit but he dropped back for a smoke so I walked with Tessa. She waited for Mel and Gemma to catch up so for the last hour of the walk I walked with Laura (Canada) and talked about her hometown, Vancouver where I will be visiting soon.

I ended up being the first one back so I got dibs on the showers. I was pretty knackered so the hot blast of water was most appreciated! As was the BBQ we all had afterwards.

The swedish girls managed to pursuade a local to give us a lift in his pickup to the local bar which is a km down the road. I was in the back of the pickup with Matt, Bodil and Kaysa and the drivers dog. The two girls started going at it really strong, tongue down each others throats right there and then. John in the back seat of the cab was getting neck strain trying to see. I was bored of this by now. They do it for attention. Matt had to seperate them when we went into the bar.

It was open mike night at the bar and there was some pretty good amateur groups. There was an all-girl goth band with a lead singer that looked like Piper out of charmed. There was a country and western singer and some solo artists including Matt who got up and sand Route 66. He was pretty good.

I strolled back a tad pissed after one too many dark beers. I was sharing a tent with Laura tonight. We talked for quite a bit as I sobered up.

- 15.03.2002 -

Barrytown, NZ

We headed down the coast to a seal colony then on to the pancake rocks. We stopped at barrytown for the night. The local pub is also the hostel. After checking in I was the first one in the bar. Gareth popped by after a while. He thinks I'm a typical northern englishman. He mentioned something about me drinking beer a lot. I pretended not to hear as I ordered my jug of Monteiths black.

I chatted to Rene and Irene (Swiss) most of the night as well as Giezella. It was a mellow night.

- 16.03.2002 -

Franz Josef, NZ

We head to Franz Josef today. We stopped in a small town famous for gold panning. We grab lunch in a cozy bar with wooden beams and a big fireplace. Irene and Rene join me.

After checking into our hostel at Franz Joesf, John, Eric, Kaysa and I head over to the guide centre and get kitted out with walking boots and protective clothing. WE are then driven to the mountains and walk through the rain through a forest and then a long rocky river bed until we arrive at the foot of the Franz Jesf Galcier. About 300m up we put crampons on our boots so we can walk on the ice. Its weird walking on solid ice which is a deep blue, knowing that all that is beneath your feet is 300m of frozen water.

We walked over giant sink holes called marlins and over ice flows. There was a thunderous noise. A rock slide was happeing to our right. It was incredible and very loud.

We walked around for an hour then went back down and drove back to town. There we were issued certificates and given the best hot chocolate I have ever tasted.

I cooked dinner and watched a bit of The Matrix which someone had put into the communal rooms VCR. I then headed to the local bar which looked like a set out of Buffy the Vampire Slayer. 15ft long slabs of wood suspended from the ceiling by chains represented the tables. The place was lit by candles in those popular black metal twisted candlesticks. The whole place had a gothic feel to it.

The pool table was free and it was doubles night. Me and Matthew teamed up and we knocked the locals off the table. They tried and tried to get back on but they could'nt and we left at 1am undefeated. I think it was more to do with Matt's playing than mine. He was a pool player in Brookyln for 5 years.

- 17.03.2002 -

Haast, NZ

Today was an easy day. We drove south past Fox Glacier to Haast. We stopped to do a few walks and to pick up some ingredients for an irish stew that we were all going to have tonight seeing as it was St.Patricks day. The Commitments was on TV.

- 18.03.2002 -

Queenstown, NZ

We drove through the Hasst pass on on to Queenstown. We stopped so a few people could bunjy jump off a bridge. Bodil decided to chicken out as she was stood on the ledge. The guy was trying to pursade her but she was shouting that she did not want to do it. A german family stood next to me were giggling until she started swearing every english swear word she knew. They put their hands over their childrens ears. I had a laugh. She did jump though.

Our accomodation in Queenstown was pretty cool. We had an apartment with a view of the lake. Amazing and for only 16 bucks!

Headed into town with Matt and John who were not feeling too good so they went to the medical center and I went food shopping. Later on they came back saying they had an ear infection and were given drops.

We got a taxi to a bar called The World. It was a cool night. Auto's bus was there and so was Steve and the 2 Canadians I had met on Mikes bus. Drank a lot and walked back with Eric.

- 19.03.2002 -

Did my washing then headed to the Pig n Whistle for bangers and mash for only 5 bucks! Walked around town, got some money from the bank then went up on the Gondola and got 5 rides on the luge. I went a bit too fast down hill and took the corner at high speed. I bust the back wheel but no one noticed.

I rode the Gondola (cable cars) back down the mountainside and spent an hour looking for a phone card for the UK so I can call my Grandma and wish her a happy 80th birthday. Finally found one and went back to the hostel. Chatted with Eric then headed out to find a phone and called her.

Matt had been teaching Bodil some pool moves so I played her and I won. She beat me in the rematch.

- 20.03.2002 -

Te Anau, NZ

I was woken at 1:30am by Kaysa and Bodil. They were worried about Matt as he wasn't feeling too good. He'd gone back to the other dorm so I told them to tell John who was in that dorm to kep an eye on him. By morning though he was in bad shape so he decided to stay.

We set off vut after 30mins got called back to pick up Casper (Denmark) who had missed the bus. We were already late so we expressed it to Te Anau where we had to pick up 11 people. We shreaded a tyre 5km outside of Te Anau and only just limited into town. There was no one around to fix it so the trip to Milford town was canceled for the day. We got a lift into town where we had to tell the others.

Steve (UK) and the 2 Canadians (Philip and Lincoln) were among the 11. We headed into town for lunch and met Nele from my old bus and Uli (German girl) and Barbara (Ireland). We played pool against the locals and generally got our arses kicked. We drank from 12 until 4pm. I went back for a nap.

Later I met the others and we watched some TV and chatted before retiring.

- 21.03.2002 -

Milford Sound to Invercargil, NZ

Damn my time is ticking away so I am going to summarise the next few days to catch up with my paper journal.

Went to Milford Sound today (Where they filmed the LoTR water scenes). Beautiful ride on a boat then an express drive to Invercargil. Watched THE MAN WHO SUED GOD which was not so good then ran into Lincoln. We went to a bar and got wasted on 8 pints of beer. At one point we were so drunk we were trying to pursuade the barmaid that she really needed to show us her dragon tattoo that covers the whole of her back. There was also porn posted above the urinals in the gents. One guy said 'This is so very wrong. How is a guy supposed to take a leak downwards?'.

- 22.03.2002 -

Dunedin, NZ

The bus door mechanism broke so Gareth fixed it with a rope. We got stopped by the police and were told the bus was unroadworthy so we had to drive to the next town and get a new one. More delays. We got into Dunedin (pronouced done-eden) pretty late. A bunch of us headed into town to get food then went to the bar in our hotel. We took Nele and Uli out later for a walk. Boy racers in suped up cars were being pulled over in the streets by the cops. Drunk girls were shouting alot.

- 23.03.2002 -

Christchurch, NZ

Our replacement bus was too small so Gareth asked for volunteers to take the free later bus. Me, the guys and Analies and Gariella volunteers. We got to sleep in plus I got to see Dunedin. We then got the bus to Christchurch, checked in and went to the bar (noticing a pattern yet?). Matt and Mel arrived also. It turned out that Matt was in a bad way and ended up in hospital. He had no travel insurance and had to pay 3,000 NZD. Ouch!

- 24.03.2002 -

Had breakfast at an Irish bar called 'The Bog'. Then me and matt went to the Museum. Later we crashed in the botanical gardens from all the walking we'd done and chatted for a long time. We went to the Art Gallery then back to the hostel. Matt went to sleep but I went to take in a live Jazz session happening next door. The singer could also play a mean saxophone. Later we went to a greek place for chicken slouvaki before going to see Lord of the Rings.

- 25.03.2002 -

Kaikoura, NZ

We drove to Kaikoura today where me and Matt went out on a fast cataman boat to do a spot of whale watching. It was the one thing that I wanted to do on this trip and had yet to do. It was pretty cool. Also saw dusky dolphins doing tricks and seals but the whales were the highlights. A dutch girl called Josephine beat my ass at chess while her mate Thomas went on and on about Mac's being the best computers in the world.

- 26.03.2002 -

Wellington, NZ

Off to Wellington today. On the road to Picton we stopped off at a beach house for a cuppa tea by the beach then a distillery to sample schnapps. We chatted away the 3 hour ferry ride and then caught the curtesy bus to the hostel. We headed to the bar (you saw that coming right?) and had a meal, a few beers, a few rounds of pool, a game of giant jenga then we settled in with a few rounds of darts. I did badly until round two where I wiped the floor clean with the lot of them. Lincoln (mad fan of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas and looks like the lead guy) says 'So Dave, you're a dart shark ay? So you never told us aboot it ay?'. Vivian (Holland) joined in then beat the lot of us. I was staying here in Wellington so I said bye to everyone. Philip gave me his details so I can call him when I'm in Toronto. He lives in Montreal.

Becky tried to set me up with Barbara back in our dorm room. She said we are well suited because we are both film nuts. We played this game on the bus where someone names two actors and you have to name the film they starred in. We were both undefeatable. I laughed her off but apparently she was serious and so was Barbara. I just wasn't interested.

- 27.03.2002 -

They all left today. Sniff. Sigh. You make new friends and then further on down the line you are saying goodbye again. I'm going to visit Matt when I get to New York though. He say's he'll show me Brooklyn and The Hamptons. I headed into town to phone home and do some shopping and sighseeing.

Went into the Te Papa museum. Xena and Gabrielle's outfits and weapons are stored here now that the series has ended. My attempts to steal Xena's chakram were foiled by lots of protected glass.

Back at the hostel I ran into Vivian in the bar and we played darts. She won. I then played a few games with Hemmy (NZ from Oz) before calling it a night.

- 28.03.2002 -

Went to St.Pauls wooden gothic church this morning as I'd seen most of the sights by now. Bought Sis a birthday card and headed to the botanic gardens for a sit down so I can write it. Wandered around for a bit before heading back to the hostel to meet the next STRAY bus. They were late so I did my washing. I know you lot love to read about the domestic activities I get up to. har har.

Bodil, Kajsa and John were on the next bus along with Sam from Mikes bus. We said hi's and caught up. I found the driver and ran into problem number one. There is no accomodation available in Taupo. Its easter weekend and there are a lot of activities on across NZ. This is confirmed when I talk to some others. There is no accomodation in Turangi, Hamilton or Auckland for the next few days. Damn.

Julie (driver) uses her mobile and manages to get me a room at the Skotel lodge in the alpine range of the Tongoriro National Park. There is only one bed left for tomorrow night. After that I'm on my own. I head out to the local cinema as I need to cheer up. I walk up to the counter with the young kid behind it and say 'How much is a student ticket to see ICE AGE?' when he tells me I hand over the EXACT amount and get the ticket. He doesn't have time to think about the fact that I never actually showed him a student ID card. The film was hilarious and I felt a small amount of satisfaction about not paying the full price to see it. Its the small things in life eh? heh

- 29.03.2002 -

Tongoriro again

Up early, breakfast then on the bus. I have decided to go to Skotel as it will give me another chance to do the crossing. At least I have a bed for the night as there is none anywhere else and its starting to get cold at night here. I could maybe find transport back to Maketu and the Maori farm the next day. They say NZ is the safest place to hitch hike. Do I have the guts to try it though? Coincidentally I am reading 'So long and thanks for all the fish' book 4 in Douglas Adams popular hitch hikers guide to the galaxy series. Did I tell you that I read a lot as I travel? Currently an average of 2 books a week.

Its a long drive to Turangi so Michelle (UK) comes and sit nexts to me. She's been learning chess since she started travelling and even has a cool palm-top magnetic set. Will I challenge her as she's already beaten Sam and John. Sure.

Two games later and two wins for me she heads back to practice on John whom she knows she can beat. Bodil, Kajsa and I are dropped of in Turangi, a one street town in the middle of nowhere. The next bus to Skotel does not leave for a few hours. I head to the tourist info place for times and prices. The woman offers to sell me a ticket for 15 bucks but I decline. As it happens the girls have managed to get us all a free ride by saying we are with STRAY.

We buy a few supplies from the only shop that is open and I manage to secure us some rooms in the local backpackers for tomorrow as a fallback option. We then sit under a tree in the sun and talk until it is time to leave.

One long but fast bus ride later and we are at Skotel. The girls get a dorm room but I manage to get a big room with two beds and a wall heater which has been left on so the room is like a sauna. And for the cost of a dorm bed! I'm glad I decided to stay here. Sometimes you get lucky. I grab a hot shower and lunch then head to the bar and reward myself with a Monteiths black (its not as if I drink them a lot now is it?). The rugby is on the big screen so us lads watch it. I haven't a clue who is who or what the rules are but I can't be arsed moving as this sofa is comfy and I can just reach my beer. Bodil pops by later to say they are going to bed.

- 30.03.2002 -

Turangi

Up early again, quick breakfast then checkout. A mist has descended and its raining. Visibility is bad. We are all dressed to do the crossing but the driver says it looks bad. He offers to take us all out to the start of the track 26km away and if its bad there we will come back and we will get a ticket refund. The mist is so bad that the driver reverses the bus into two parked cars. Both have nasty dents in them. To our surprise the driver drives off.

The visibility level is bad so we head back. He drops us off outside the tourist office so he does not have to face the car owners. I'm sure someone will tell on him but it won't be me. The girls are fed up and don't want to try again for the walk from Turangi. They start to phone the hostels in Taupo. They get lucky. How many beds do we want says Kajsa. I toss a mental coin and say 'three'. Ok she says but we have until 3pm to get there or they'll give them to someone else.

The girls are buzzing with excitement. 'This is what we like about travelling! The challenge of getting from one place to another'. We walk to the bus stop and stand under the shelter out of the rain until the driver comes. Its the guy that dropped us off yesterday and he doesn't look happy. The girls say I should do the talking today. I figure he's down because of the weather so I crack a few jokes etc and he's cool. We hop on. In Turangi he's too busy talking to a passenger and ignores us for a bit. The girls grab their bags and leave the bus. I follow. We head around the back of the buildings. The girls think its great that we got 30 bucks worth of bus rides for nothing. They are eager to push their luck further. After canceling our backpacker reservations we head to the highway in the general direction of Taupo and try to hitch. Or at least the girls do as I walk besides them. I figure its gunna be harder to hitch with 3 people unless we get a truck or farm vehicle to stop. I'm proved right until Bodil gets a lift offer off some fellow travellers but they can only take two. They are going to decline but I convince them it would be foolish to waste such an offer. I'll try my luck on my own I say. 'But you are our bodyguard!'. They've been calling me that jokingly. I'm they're bodyguard that protects their asses and they are my bizatches that hassle or sweet talk people for me. We make a good team.

I say goodbye to the girls and head back into town determined to get a cheap bus ticket. Screw this hitching lark. My luck changes though and all the buses are fully booked for today and our beds in the backpackers are gone. Its 12:00 and I have to be in Taupo by 3pm. The lady in the tourist info centre actually recommends I hitch. No way would they say that in England. I head to the highway and try my luck. After all I look relatively harmless right? An hour later and I'm sitting by the roadside under the hot sun about 5km outside of Turangi which is impressive in itself as my gear weighs about 20kg. With straw in my mouth I stick my thumb out at passing motrorists and smile. They smile and wave as they pass. I walk on counting the dead possums by the roadside. One hundred and six.. one hundred and seven.

Later as I'm sitting down again a van stops. Unbelievable! I run over to it thinking its going to pull away at any moment with voices laughing from inside but it doesnt. The drivers name is Garth and he has a van full of carpentry gear. He's helping his friend relocate to Taupo. Where am I headed? Taupo. Hop in.

The drive is long but good as we chat about travelling. He's a traveller himself. 'Are you travelling on your own in NZ?' he asks. 'No with two young swedish girls' I say (I mean, come on, how often in your life are you going to be able to use that line? So I have to milk it for all its worth right?). 'I'm meeting them in Taupo' I continue. 'We'll we'll have to make sure you get back to them swedish girls then ay?' he says.

Garth is a kindergarden teacher for kids with special needs. At least thats we he says. I have no reason to not believe him. My job in the car is to stop the stuff in the back coming to far forward. He drops me off right outside my hostel and I wave bye happy that my first time ever at hitch hiking is over and I'm alive. No Rudger Hauer this time.

The girls are delighted to see me and bounce up and down saying 'its David its David!'. Apparently its not so much about being happy to see me as the manageress said if I was a no-show they'd have to pay for my bed as they booked it. But I'd like to think they were concerned about my wellbeing.

We went into town for supplies and I caught up on the girls trip. The group they caught a lift off were from Israel and were travelling around NZ. They'd stopped to price a bungy jump so the girls had only been there for 20 minutes before I had arrived. In town I priced a ticket to Te Puke. It was 34 bucks. (Note: The girls are not new to hitching. It was their idea to hitch as they do it all over Sweden. Apparently Sweden is a safe country to hitch in as well).

I grabbed my walkman and told the girls I was going for a walk. I headed down to the beach listening to 'Rock FM'. It was at the beach where I ran into Kyle and Pheta (NZ) from the Magic bus. They were getting pretty wasted on cheap white wine. I joined them until it ran out. Pheta was a Maori girl of about 21 and was pretty drunk by the time I showed up. She had a dirty sense of humour. :o)

We went to get some beer at the local bottleshop. Or at least I did with money they gave me as they were too drunk. We drank it by the beach until Pheta's friends came for her. Me and Kyle met Nathan the magic bus driver and were walking back when a car pulled up and Pheta shouted me over. There was a guy and girl in front and she was in the back. She wanted me to go with them. They had loads of pot to share. I declined.

Back at the hostel I introduced Kyle and Nathan to the girls. The girls were annoyed with me. I'd gone out for a walk and come back slightly drunk. 'If you were going drinking you should of taken us!' They whined. 'Hey, I ran into these guys, I did not intentionally set out to go drinking'. 'And I thought you said you were low on money' they continued. 'Did I say I paid for the drinks? I don't think so.' I answered back.

Nathan was up for a bribe. He'd take me to Te Puke for a few bucks. We leave at 10am.

- 31.03.2002 -

On the road again

I was on the bus in time with Nathan and Kyle. Nathan says that its normally a 54 dollar trip but he'll do it for 40 bucks. It seems that over night they've been considering the cash they are getting and their cut. I wasn't about to be milked. I said it was only 34 bucks via Intercity. He came down to 30 bucks but wouldn't budge. I handed it over. I've saved 4 bucks and I can chat to the passengers. But then he says they are stopping along the way to do activities and they wont get to Te Puke until 5pm or later. Thats to late as I need to arrange a lift or worse, hitch when I get there and I don't want to do that at night. He gives me my cash back, I say bye and head into town.

Looking at my north island map I've figured out that if I go to Paengaroa rather than Te Puke, its easier to get to Maketu so at the bus station I buy a ticket there which is only 32 bucks and takes 2 hours. Cool. While waiting in the waiting room I put my walkman radio on. The Queen Mother has died. Sigh.

The bus ride is long and boring and when I get dropped off at Paengaroa I realise that basically its a 3 shop and a petrol station stop. I find the only phone box in the area and use my phone card to call Slim but their mobiles answering machine eats the card up. Feck.

Some kind of wonderful luck descends on me at this point and even I can't believe it. A young Maori girl walks past, stops, and says 'Hello David. Remember me?'. 'Oh yeah.. er whats the name of that drink again.. Margerita?'. Yep. Her, her mother and father and brother are in Paengora getting supplies. What a lucky coincidence. Do I want a lift to Maketu? You betcha.

The others are amazed to see me. I shake hands with Bill and say hi to Pam. 'Couldn't keep away from the cows?' says Pam.

Back at the house I get introduced to the 3 girls that got off the bus recently. Sarah and Sally are from Gloustershire (if you mention Pam Aire to Sarah she will kill you) and Sarah from the Lake District. We chat for hours about this and that only stopping occasionally to make another cuppa.

Uncle Boy showed up later. 'You couln't keep away ay David? You know where your home is don't you? Its good to have you back.' he said as we shook hands, me grinning. 'Slim and Karen are in Rotorua. Wait till they get back!' he left saying 'You know where everything is, make yourself at home'.

Karen walked in first later mouth agape. 'I thought it was you!' She went outside to Slim. 'Guess whose back?'.

They were moving their gear from their old house to here so I helped them. The fridge freezer cable had become severed in the move and it was full of food. I got out my swiss army knife which has come in useful so many times on this trip and rewired the cable into the back of the unit. Its about the only thing I can remember from my BTEC electronics course. 'You know what you are?' said Slim. 'A godsend'. I was a tad embarrased. Later over a drink before bed Slim said 'Its good to have you back bro'.

David Kei

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